Published in  
September 21, 2021

The Lowers Battle

I felt like a soldier going out to battle, it was the first real steep south swell of the season. The swell was already beginning to hit Lowers in San Clemente as I prepared my gear the night before for an early morning surf.

I made sure I had the right fins packed, surfboard leash was solid, warmer wetsuit, ear plugs, sunscreen, alarm was set, a second alarm was set just in case, my warm water bottle to rinse off with, a few snacks, and my drinking water. I had taken all the steps necessary to be ready for a great surf.

As most of you know, when surfing a world class wave in a densely populated area, you will not be the only one out surfing. Lowers is no exception, even with leaving my house at 4:00am and ready to paddle out in the dark to try to grab a few waves before the massive crowd shows up. It’s a serious battle to get a set wave, let alone a medium inside wave. Your heart begins to race, your muscles begin to work a little harder, your facial expression becomes intense, and you feel like you have entered a battle. All this is done to ride a great wave.

As I reflect on my Christian walk for the last 25+ years I have to stop and realize I am in a battle. This battle is not about catching a wave or battling 50 other surfers over that one perfect wave.

Ephesians 6:12: "For our struggle is not against flesh and blood, but against the rulers, against the authorities, against the powers of this dark world and against the spiritual forces of evil in the heavenly realms."

Growing up, my siblings and I recited these verses every morning from Ephesians that Paul wrote. We must be prepared for the real battle. “Satan comes to snake you and steal your wave.” He comes to steal and kill and destroy. He is like a lion looking to devour us. We must get up and equip ourselves for the battle. We need to put on our full armor of God each and every day.

"Therefore put on the full armor of God, so that when the day of evil comes, you may be able to stand your ground." Ephesians 6:13