Passion is a funny thing. While it is something you must individually pursue, it’s conception has almost nothing to do with you. It finds you. It hunts you down. Leaving it dormant will forever leave you feeling like you are missing something, and the crazy thing is that if you ignore it, you’re not actually being who you were created to be.

One of my latest surf sessions I was looking at the surf for a while to figure out how to best paddle out to the lineup without getting fully destroyed on the way out. I asked one of the guys who just came out of the water how it was and his response was, “fun, but the paddle out was brutal 'cause of the current.”